Lifestyle

Well-Nourished

November 13, 2009 Edition 1

Anne Stevens

The road to insolvency is littered with restaurateurs who were so successful they decided to expand their business.

Not many realise that the key to their popularity lies in the fact that they are hands-on; that their customers expect to see them presiding over the kitchen or working front of house.

Bigger/extra premises mean more expense and less control.

But Jonathan Jones is unlikely to rue opening another Nourish, this time in Durban North.

His Westville customers will still see him there and in the new venture he has a great partner in Tracey Brewis, who used to help run Westville.

She is young, friendly, efficient and everywhere at once. All you would want in a restaurant proprietor.

And judging by the number of people in Nourish in Adelaide Tambo (Kensington) Drive on a recent Sunday, the formula is right for Durban North. It is a child-friendly zone and the menu proclaims: "For the kids - we will try our best to make them something they will love."

The breakfasts are notable and scrambled egg with mushrooms going to a nearby table looked creamy, substantial and very appealing. In Westville I've indulged in croissants with mushrooms in a Parmesan cream sauce (the kitchen obligingly held back on the garlic bit) and kippers with egg. Way to start the day.

There's a range of omelettes with fillings like Danish feta with cherry tomatoes, and camembert and cranberry.

Nourish's strong point is that produce is sourced locally, where possible, and ingredients are fresh.

Lettuce for the huge salads comes from Mariannhill Monastery, now a supplier to so many restaurants.

Even I could be tempted to try greens with soya chicken, warm noodles, nuts and mint; or with prawns, feta and almonds.

Ciabatta can be had with the likes of rare peppered fillet and spicy sweet potato paté, or hot chilli chicken with ginger, spring onions and mint.

There are also Thai-style curries, but I made a perfect choice in al dente penne with smoked salmon in a light fennel and garlic cream sauce. Now that is the right way to treat pasta.

And my partner, who views ventures offering "fresh", "organic" food with great distrust, was enthusiastic about slices of rare beef fillet marinated in Thai spices and served with roasted butternut and sweet potato mash. He thought it was surprisingly good.

Fillet also comes with a camembert and black pepper cream sauce, mussels with blue cheese or tomatoes and garlic, and chicken in a parmesan and mushroom sauce.

Crepes with mixed berries and nougat ice cream were far too filling, but good nonetheless.

We left well-Nourished.

Prices: Light meals R38 to R65; more substantial dishes R55 to R98.

Ambience: Clean-lined, bright and functional.

Opening hours: Tuesday to Sunday from 8am (closed Sunday night).

Telephone: 031 564 3149.

The Deli in Lilian Ngoyi (Windermere) Road has a new menu, conceived with this venue's customary flair.

Pick of the bunch at a recent lunch was a salad of chicken breast, white beans and artichokes, served on rocket with a zingy green dressing.

It all blended well, so much better than a caramelised pear and blue cheese salad, which was lopsidedly sweet. I'd rather try pepper-crusted beef fillet, which comes with greens and a coriander salsa verde, or lentils with roast butternut and feta.

The sandwiches, made with rye, wholewheat or ciabatta, include smoked trout with rocket, cream cheese and cucumber, and pickled brisket with piccalilli, tomato and gherkins.

A cold red pepper soup would be a winner on a summer's day; a white bean and pasta one topped with tomato salsa an option when the rain comes.

If I decided to go the pasta route again I'd try the gnocchi with smashed broad beans, crispy chorizo and leeks, rather than penne with artichokes, pancetta and onion. It was too watery, needing cream or olive oil to bring it all together.

Opening hours: Weekdays 11am to 2.30pm; Saturdays 11am to 1m.

Telephone: 031 303 8815.